Performance Car Mods That Actually Work  | The Bestest | Donut Media
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Performance Car Mods That Actually Work | The Bestest | Donut Media


Race cars are cool. We should all have a little race car in our
lives. With the right mods, you can get a taste of
that race car experience everyday on your way to work, in whatever car you own. This week I’m covering the best performance
mods that’ll actually make your car faster and what you’ll need to know to avoid trouble
along the way. Making your car faster means improving on
three principles of vehicle dynamics: Handling, braking, and acceleration. They all effect one another, and so will all
the mods you buy for your car. You’ll need to do some planning, so all
your mods will work in harmony once you move up the chain of performance upgrades. This way you won’t run into many issues
and you can spend more time having fun in your car. And you won’t be late to work. The best way to start is with an upgrade that
improves all three principles at the same time. Coilovers improve handling, braking and acceleration
by keeping your car in a controlled state during aggressive driving. Meaning you’ll be more planted when launching
from a stop. You’ll have better weight distribution under
braking so your front tires don’t won’t all the load. And your handling will improve by giving you
better feel and a lower center of gravity. You get what you pay for with coilovers, and
a cheap universal set can do more harm than good. A quality set of coilovers are not only going
to drastically increase the performance of your car, they are going to set the pace for
the rest of your upgrades. If you’re only looking to do one upgrade,
coilovers will definitely give you that race car feel. Match that with a set a wider wheels and tires,
and the improvement to your car’s performance will be even better. But you’ll want to consider both before
you pull the trigger on new suspension. Starting from the ground up, your tires are
the first point of contact between your car and road. And they come in a wide range of performance
ratings and sizes. So you’ll want the suspension to match the
performance of the tires. Since we’re looking for a taste of that
race car experience, you’ll want tires that grip the road like Pumphrey grips on to memories
of his dad. You can achieve that with a wider tire that
has a softer compound to stick to the road. There’s many extreme performance tires to
choose from, and all of them are going to give you huge performance advantages in all
three driving principles. If your stock wheels don’t have many performance
tire options, then you can step it up notch by upgrading your wheels. First off, you’re going to want to make
sure that whatever wheel size you choose has plenty of tire options. So check out your options online before you
pull the trigger on your wheel size. Since we’re looking for performance, you’re
want to make sure you buy something light. Even the smallest weight savings here will
give you a noticeable difference in acceleration, handling, and braking. Lowering the weight of rotating mass makes
it easier to speed up or slow down that mass. Sort of like this fidget spinner. Doesn’t spin that fast with the weight on
it, but once you take that weight out. Ah mechanic thumbs. As you can see it’s easier to spin without
the weights. You probably can’t tell but you can try it
out at home and you can see the difference. Plus, it’s unsprung weight, in other words,
it’s a part of the car that moves around while you’re driving. Weight savings here are exponentially more
effective than weight savings anywhere else. Lighter suspension components means your car
can respond much quicker to steering inputs while under load. Now, picking the size of your wheel depends
heavily on the model of your car. The best way to find out which wheel is right
for your car is to search the forums and see what everyone else is using. You can save yourself a ton of money and time
by learning from everyone else’s mistakes. I found my wheels by doing a simple image
search of my car and the wheels that I wanted and not to my surprise, it led me straight
to a forum discussing wheel fitment. Turns out those were the widest possible wheels
I could fit on the car, so I sized down a notch just to make sure I wouldn’t have
any issues with rubbing. And my car still handles like it’s on rails. You can make up a lot of time while trying
to catch up to someone by consistently braking harder than them. If you really want a big brake kit, then you
should check the size of your wheels before you buy them to make sure that those things
are gonna fit inside. But you can save money by upgrading the components
of your existing brakes. Your stock brakes are generally meant to operate
at around 100°F to 600°F. Race pads are made to operate much hotter, like 600°F to
1500°F. So opting for a mix street/race pad will give you the best of both worlds with
an operating temperature of 100°F to 800°F. It is not recommended to run race pads on
the street, but I did it anyway. And let me tell you those things bit hard,
but they squealed like a bus when they were “cold”, which was all the time. Unless I was driving hard on the track. So if you do want racing pads, you’re going
to need to swap them in and out between track days. Of course, you’re gonna want some lightweight
performance rotors to go with it so you can cut more weight where it really counts. A performance brake fluid flush, to keep your
stuff from boiling. And some performance brake lines to go with
those pads. Those will keep your brake lines from expanding
under heat, which will results in an inconsistent and squishy brake pedal. Upgrading your differential is the most reliable
way to make your car accelerate faster in a straight line and through the turns. A limited slip will allow both wheels to move
at the same speed when you smash the gas, perfect for if you’re trying to do some sweet
drifts. Modding the gear ratio inside that differential
can also make your car a lot faster in a reliable way. The ratio you choose will depend on the model
of car you have, so check with your new best friends on the forums to find out which one
is best for you. Oh, by the way if you’re gonna upgrade that
gear ratio you’re gonna want to pay someone to do it for you. Because most shops pay another shop to do
it for them. That’s how difficult it is to work on. Regardless if you’ll be shifting gears more
frequently due to a tighter gear ratio or not. A short shifter will help you reduce your
shift times, and make your car noticeably more enjoyable to drive, even while your stuck
in traffic. You’re going to want a quality one, so don’t
cheap out here, you’ll be using it 100’s of times a day, so you’ll really appreciate
grabbing on to something nice. Modding your engine varies a lot from car
to car, sometimes you can squeeze out a lot of horsepower on the cheap. More often than not, your opening Pandora’s
Box. For most of us, the trickiest mods are those
relating to the engine. Yes, you can improve your acceleration with
a lot of money and/or time invested into your engine. Who knows you might get lucky and just have
a little post traumatic stress before you’re all done. So stick to a basic tune up, and regular oil
changes. Cold air intakes, sorry to say, they a waste
of money. Other high dollar upgrades only give you marginal
gains and run a big chance of triggering engine codes and causing problems. You’re better off spending more money on
better quality parts that we already discussed. I’m not saying don’t do it, but you’ll
need those previous mods to handle more horsepower anyway. A big horsepower might make you sound fast,
but it’s all about how you use your horsepower, rather than how big your horsepower is. You can have a tiny little horsepower, and
still beat cars at the track that with a very large horsepower. So learn how to drive properly first, get
some practice, take some driving courses, make some mistakes in a safe place so you
can become more confident with your car. You don’ t need any mods to do that, and
you’re gonna want to get used to every mod you install, after you install it. Instead of going full speed into a brick wall. So take it slow and find your car’s sweet
spot. After all, you’re the one who decides what
mod, if any, you need for you car. Tell me about the best mods you’ve done to
your car. What’s a mod you’ve done on your car that
didn’t do sh**? What’s one that wasted your money and time? Not talking about your ex-girlfriend. What’s your favorite suspension? I don’t have one, because no one sponsored
this video. You really missed out on that one. What kind of suspension do you have on your
car? KW’s, Ohlins …? Thanks for watching be sure
to like, subscribe and share. If you guys want Donut shirts, if you guys
want Donut stickers head, head to shop.donut.media. And I’ll see you next Friday.

100 thoughts on “Performance Car Mods That Actually Work | The Bestest | Donut Media

  1. Did you really make a "Performance Car Mods" list without ECU tune? Like every car past 2015-> is turbo charged meaning you can push extra 40-80hp out of it in 15mins.

  2. Me on my Honda Innova 125:
    Rim size rear – front: 3.50×17 – 2.50×17
    Tires: Corsa Soft Compound 120/70-17 & Pirelli Angel City 90/80-17
    Suspensions: Answer Suspensions with subtank & Scarlet full front fork & tube
    Brakes: TDR brakehose & RCB master
    Disk/rotor: Igawa Racing
    Brake pads: Daytona
    Exhaust: 3Tech Tridente Ronin
    Chain: Faito Cimeti Drago 428H
    Gearset: 15:40 SSS Thailand
    Swingarm: Full Alumunium Supertrack + Stabilizer

    The most pricy: Answer Racing Suspension 360mm with subtank, Price: USD170, and second hand Honda Innova only cost around USD250

    The most badass looking old bike 125cc in the town LOL

  3. I put a Honda emblem on my car, it lost half its HSPRS. So I threw a VTEC emblem next to it, now I’m back in business.

  4. I have an '09 Dodge Avenger SXT and I love that car! Yeah it's only a 4-banger but I love the look and options it has. I've done some body work here and there but I want something to help it perform better.

  5. funny how girlfriends of guys with small horse power are the only ones that say they don't need big horse power

  6. Weight reduction is key, start with all the useless interior junk like passenger seats, door panels, dashboard, airbags etc. After that I took of the body panels and then my biggest weight savings was in the engine and transmission. Taking those out really brought down the weight.

  7. I stripped my car completely from the inside just have to seats, one for me and another one for my daughter lol.. and we love how fun we have on it since then

  8. Hold on, hold on.
    CAI… Useless?

    I think donut forgot about DYNO tunes.

    Totally reasonable for a car channel.

    Edit: adjusted the paragraph

  9. I drive a MK1 focus. First mod was adjustable shocks and higher ratio springs 4 corners with added benefit of lower center of gravity. Caster, camber kit on the 4 corners, camber a deg on te negative rear, 0 on front and caster as positive as it can go. 5 degs I think. Energy suspension bushings or steel bushings where available all around the hatch suspension. Switched out the rear drums for SVT discs, the front's switched for the bigger SVT discs. All these have braided brake lines with motul rbf 600 brake fluid. Quaife LSD on the stock tremec source transmission. Stiffy and semisolid engine and tranny mounts. A mild engine tune for the stage 2 comp cams and tiny spoiler. Its not the quickest from dead stop, but, track days have caught of guard couple quick cars. On the highway dry reaches 130 from 65 in less than 7 seconds and with NOS shot have reached 147. Its a gokart, kove the handling.

  10. The Dodge Neon SRT 4’s suspension couldn’t handle the extra horsepower people put in it. And owners forgot to upgrade suspension on it

  11. engine management plays an important role. i got e manage piggy back to support bigger injectors and a higher degree camshaft.

  12. ** PRO TIP OF THE DAY **
    Remove your sears and replace them with plastic foldable chairs for better weight reduction!

  13. 2009 Nissan Sentra 2.0 is my beast! (Basics: 87 Reg Gas, Amsoil Signature 5w30 Oil, K&N Oil Filter, Motul Brake Fluid, Redline Water Wetter ) Mods: Weapon R Intake, Apexi N1 Muffler, Mid Resonator Delete, Rays Aluminium Racing Lug Nuts, Brembo Brake Pads. Misc: K&N Filter on Crankcase Breather Hose, PW JDM Aluminum bolts/washers entire engine bay, Fake Carbon Fibre wrap on some interior panels. Next mods- Bridgestone Potenza 205/45/R16 Tires, H&R Lowering Springs, Custom Dyno Tune.

  14. So I have a 2014 dart gt and I snuck the turbo out of a 1.4 at a junk yard and man did that make my commute more fun.
    So fun I had to swap my brakes to a drilled set that bites harder than my last pair. Next is coil overs

  15. Honestly people talk a lot of shit about throttle body spacers but I installed a 1 inch one and the difference before and after is crazy lol

  16. Good advice, except for the cold air intake though.. installed a cold air intake on my S3, definitely felt the gain in acceleration and overall top speed. Before the mod max speed was 260km/h, after mod 280km/h. Also had the exhaust redone with down pipe, most boxes removed except for one so the sensor doesn't throw a fault.

    For Turbo cars the cold intake will definitely help some gains, although with a naturally aspirated car, it might just make more noise then power.

    I agree with the overall video though.. great source of info from these guys.

  17. Hold on a sec, so you're saying my $25 Ebay superchip, $50 Ebay ram air intake, $150 Ebay extra-super electric supercharger and my $75 Ebay hyper-performance exhaust tip haven't increased the power output on my 2.4L Tigershark equipped Avenger? You sir are mistaken, because I know for a fact that my car is now pushing 300WHP, which is more than the 3.6L equipped Avenger came with stock. I know this because on the boxes of all of those products they guarantee big HP gains and when I added the figures up it equaled 350HP at the crank. Just saying….

  18. i got a new sflow muffler that works a charm, gained about 8hp just by installing the muffler (muffler only), eventually i swaped the whole system to a bigger diameter exhaust and the power went up but the dyno said i was losing torque.

  19. coil overs also make the ride of your daily pretty harsh. I think beefing up the sway bars works better. tires are, of course, a must. cold air intake does make a difference, but only when combined with exhaust headers and a new tune.

  20. Catless exhaust, removed weight AND heat from the engine bay. Best mod I have done to date. My primary cats are right off the manifolds, so they retain a ton of under hood heat. This caused hot intake temps and poor performance until they came up to temp. So much heat that my hood was too hot to touch after even a short drive. A simple tune did away with the o2 code and no mufflers gave me a big smile. Now the engine can breathe and I can make pops and bangs all the time. Best mod so far.

  21. Cold air does increase engine horsepower with a proper TUNE on the DYNO. As long it's not a cheap short ram that suck hot air in the engine or a filter on the OEM intake. Also, removing mass on the brake rotor is not a good idea since more mass = more thermal capacity. It's okay to give tips, but do it right.

  22. For sure the best mod is to upgrade the nut behind the steering wheel.
    I was at a buttonwillow track day and there was an integra running in the red/black group with AMG GT’s, Porsche GT3’s and a C7 Vette.
    Before spending money on upgrades, seriously consider selling you car and buying something better. A 1998-2004 vette has more performance out of the box and more room to upgrade than money mustangs older than 2012. S2000’s make up one third to one half of the cars you see at track days- there is a reason for that.

  23. I put an oil catch can on my Saab. Saved my engine from getting hydro locked after gf drove through puddles with Open Intake.

  24. I kinda disagree with the cold air intake thing. Sure just throwing on a KnA air filter won't make you notice any difference, but a good after market intake paired with a full head back exhaust will make be very noticeable.

  25. “It’s all about how you use your horsepower, rather than how big it is”

    Yeah that’s what my ex-girlfriend said as well, and it seemed that my ”small horsepower” was the problem…

  26. My worst mod is my stainless steel straight pipe exhaust but because my car is a1.3 turbo diesal it sounds like a wasp in a jar it's awful but I can't take it off because it's all welded together it's one big pipe not little sections

  27. "Cold air intakes are a waste of money" Only true if you don't get a tune for the increased airflow. You really benefit from a cold air when you live in a cooler climate that doesn't see 100F temps outside etc. You will see a decent gain with a CAI on good days but most with open filter elements will suffer from heat soak in traffic (or staging at the race track). An open filter element is better in cool weather and definitely flows more air but a closed box will see better temps in hotter weather and have less of an issue with heat soak while making slightly less power in ideal conditions.

  28. removing the 15" full alloy wheels my 3rd-hand riced MK2 VW came with to go back to its original 14" honeycomb BBS removed SO MUCH WEIGHT… Also, going back from sh*tty low springs to original GT springs did help road holding, recalibrating the injectors to factory specs made it gulp far less gasoline, switching to ventilated disks instead of cheap single disks really helped with braking… The only mod I made that I'm not sure actually had any effect was mounting an intercooler. Well, it didn't really hurt either.

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